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Thread: Solarcon 99 or 2000 ?

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    Solarcon 99 or 2000 ?

    Hello all ! I am still putting together my first CB base setup in 40 years so it has been a huge learning curve for me. I have narrowed down my two choices for an antenna to either a Solarcon 99 or 2000....I am leaning towards a 99 but have been told the 2000 may have a longer range. I have also been told with the added length of the 2000 comes more tuning issues. I'm hoping not to have to put the antenna up more than once if possible, probably not a realistic goal but reason being since I'm in a wheelchair I'm going to have to find someone (that knows what they're doing) to do any maintenance on it and that's going to be tough....Suggestions please ? Thank you !

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    If you have the money to get the IMAX 2000 get it and skip the A99. You'll be happy you did. Also make sure to get the GPK. (Ground Plane Kit), for it as well. The A99 should have this installed as well, the GPK. It helps with common mode current and also RFI/TVI.
    Then you need to get either antenna up to over 30ft at the base of the antenna. Going lower then that is what will give you more headaches with CMC's, RFI/TVI. This is bleeding onto your neighbors tv, radio, computer speakers, and so on. And possibly your things too. And like I said the Ground Plane Kit is a good buy. Don't let anyone tell you different. Not for performance increase, but more to keep RF where it belongs.
    These are just my opinions, but look up
    A99 versus IMAX 2000.
    Here is the only catch. If you have bad weather, and I mean bad weather a lot, get the A99 as it's shorter and doesn't catch as much wind. If you have the normal T-storms and such, like I said, skip the A99 and get the IMAX 2000. Get it up to 30+ feet and you'll be happy you did.
    The only other choices for antennas I would even consider would be the Hy-Gain SPT500 or the Sirio vector 4000. Either of these antennas would be a great buy as well.
    The SPT 500 being easier to put together and is a strong antenna that will get a signal out no problem either and may be more quiet on receive than either of the Fiberglass antennas like the A99 or IMAX 2000. As a matter of fact, if you can afford about $25-$40 more dollars you could get the SPT500 and I know they are a good antenna. I've seen them modeled and also heard many great things about them. Matt here on the forums owns one, I bet he can help you with which one to choose if that is the case. I bet he says the SPT500 over the other 2, (A99 or IMAX 2000). That is JMHO. But I also like metal antennas better myself. Fiberglass splinters and being white like they are, the UV gets to them. Some last 10yrs, some 1 year. Depends on where you live.
    Sorry for the text wall. Just want you to be aware of all other options and also why some antennas are better than others.
    The internet is full of articles about all the antennas I listed. The A99, IMAX 2000, Hy Gain SPT500, Sirio Vector 4000. I would research all four of these antennas and take a pen and pad and write down the length, weight, power handling capabilities, wind load, the DBI Gain figures, price, and what type materials are used and reviews. Then compare all of it and see which ones rise to the top. That would be the best way to go about getting a good antenna. Me personally, my vote goes to the SPT500, yes it's more work to setup. But it's worth every penny.
    Same with the Sirio vector 4000. IMAX 2000 being 3rd, and A99 bottom of the barrel. These again, are JMHO's and some of the experience I've had with Fiberglass antennas. I've owned a couple of A99's and I hated them. Would rather string up an Inverted V dipole or even a Horizontal dipole instead. At any rate, not trying to bash any of the antennas. They all serve their purpose!!! The IMAX 2000 does well for what it is. I'll leave it at that. But like I said, research the crap out of the ones I listed and go from there. You'll be happy if you research more when you do pick one of the antennas.
    Make sure you have plenty of hands on deck. And I know you're situation, but if you can get an antenna set at about 3ft off the ground to start you can build it like that and not worry about breaking or loosing parts more. Also might want to lay a sheet out around the area you have the antenna stuck in the ground to put it together. This will help avoid losing parts in the grass or dirt or whatever. A light colored one will work very well.
    Just trying to help you as much as possible NYRAVEN. Hope you get an antenna you are happy with!!!! Be safe or tell whoever you will get to help you install the antenna to please be safe and work smarter not harder!!!
    Hope this test wall has some info that will help you sir. Good luck and God Bless.
    Sean

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    I will agree on the SPT500. Although, I am running a beam as well now. I have a beam on a tower about 35 feet up in the air with the spt500 on top the beam. The spt is a great antenna.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Happy DXing

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    Quote Originally Posted by mattsowders1989 View Post
    I will agree on the SPT500. Although, I am running a beam as well now. I have a beam on a tower about 35 feet up in the air with the spt500 on top the beam. The spt is a great antenna.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Did you remove the SPT-500 ground plane radials when you installed it above the beam, which I presume is a flatside Yagi?

    I'll 3rd that - about the SPT-500 being the best overall. It's a near exact replica of an antenna (The Hy-gain PENETRATOR) which has been the reference standard for omni-directional Base antennas for almost 50 years.

    Assembly requires some "screwdrivering" & measurement but if you have a careful & conscientious friend to help set it up, you'll be glad you went with the SPT-500 instead of the Imax, though the Imax ain't bad.

    Hope to hear you on the band!

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    Thanks fellas !

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    Ok, I have settled in the SPT 500...I'm mounting it on the peak of my house, and it's a straight run down and through the wall. 25ft of coax will be plenty...Is that too little cable ?? I'm not sure how length effects things with a CB cable compared to other things such as my DIRECTV satellite dish. The tech told me the shorter the cable the better the signal, for the satellite dish anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nyraven View Post
    ok, i have settled in the spt 500...i'm mounting it on the peak of my house, and it's a straight run down and through the wall. 25ft of coax will be plenty...is that too little cable ?? I'm not sure how length effects things with a cb cable compared to other things such as my directv satellite dish. The tech told me the shorter the cable the better the signal, for the satellite dish anyway.
    Well, if you want to do the best, most correct & supreme quality installation of the SPT-500, You should isolate it from all metal (mast) using a solid fiberglass rod and then wrap a 5 turn by 4.25" diameter current choke in the coax directly beneath the antenna coax connector, and around the 12" - 18" of fiberglass rod.

    I like to use a 46 foot length of LMR-400 coax.

    Around here I can only find 1" diameter solid fiberglass rod so I slide 1.5" gray PVC over it to make it a large enough diameter for the U-bolts on the antenna base. NEVER USE BLACK ABS! It has a high carbon content.

    From other posts by owners of the new SPT-500, it appears it should be 22' 6" tall - if that helps your builder/ installer.

    Another good practice is to carefully remove 1/2" of casing from your coax just before it goes into the house and add a short wire to a ground rod from around the shield to which you'd carefully solder the ground wire, avoiding melting the dielectric, then paint well with liquid electrical tape to reseal the coax casing.
    Last edited by JAF0; 01-25-2017 at 03:00 PM.

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    isolating the 500 (with it's ground elements) from the metal mast and then grounding it by the braid of the coax shield negates most any (possible) benefit of isolating it from ground/mast .... i'd connect straight to the pipe and put the pipe a few feet in the ground or bolt heavy gauge wire to the bottom of the pipe going to a ground rod for max ground effect . the 500 has a proper ground plane and isn't typically prone to creating CMC's like 99/2000's can .

    if you're not comfortable soldering 259's onto coax use what ever length you have that's long enough and make the slack into a bow-tie . if you are comfortable soldering and like splitting hairs use a multiple of the electrical wavelength of what ever coax you're using for your center frequency .

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    Quote Originally Posted by BOOTY MONSTER View Post
    isolating the 500 (with it's ground elements) from the metal mast and then grounding it by the braid of the coax shield negates most any (possible) benefit of isolating it from ground/mast .... i'd connect straight to the pipe and put the pipe a few feet in the ground or bolt heavy gauge wire to the bottom of the pipe going to a ground rod for max ground effect . the 500 has a proper ground plane and isn't typically prone to creating CMC's like 99/2000's can .

    if you're not comfortable soldering 259's onto coax use what ever length you have that's long enough and make the slack into a bow-tie . if you are comfortable soldering and like splitting hairs use a multiple of the electrical wavelength of what ever coax you're using for your center frequency .
    Booty I was referring to RF isolation, not DC isolation.

    You want DC grounding, coax shield to real Earth ground for a static bleed-off path, and to help your radio's noise blanker & ANL work it's best, but you want total RF isolation if possible, at the antenna in order to maintain the best pattern & least RFI.

    The 5T x 4.25" choke wound right below the 5/8's radials & coax connector, and around the fiberglass "mast top", will isolate any RF coupling on the shield from propagating down the coax, though DC grounding will still occur all the way up to the radials from Earth ground.

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    to each their own .....

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