Mobile setup suggestions and wisdom requested.

**Turboomni** · 04-21-2020, 08:36 AM

Thanks again.

**Turboomni** · 04-21-2020, 11:47 AM

I am finally getting to use this CB setup. Around my house reception is very poor and as a last resort pulled the stops to get a serious mobile antenna. I figured it was the last chance to enjoy this thing. I go to a high spot pointing east west and talk with a nice bunch of guys in Albany NY area. I had tried them a month ago with a short cheap mag mount and no kl 203. They heard me but couldn't make out what I was saying. Now it is loud and clear and I am very happy I didnt give up. With my mobile antenna does it radiate more front to back or side to side on it's just perfectly omnidirectional? Anyways it's fun to get.out of the house in my truck ,go to a high point and chat a bit. Thanks to all for the help so far. Now to figure out my base antenna problem.

**JesseJamesDallas** · 04-21-2020, 03:50 PM

It would depend on where you have the antenna mounted, as to how the signal pattern is radiating..."Center of the roof", your going to be fairly omnidirectional...If the antenna is on back of the vehicle then the signal is going to be more directional to the front of the truck...Where-ever the most metal is, is the direction the signal is going to get pulled to.

**Turboomni** · 04-21-2020, 05:01 PM

Thanks so basically the roof of my truck is the ground plane . If the antenna is in the back of the roof it will radiate more twards the front because of more ground plane in that direction and vice versa. Thanks

**JesseJamesDallas** · 04-21-2020, 05:18 PM

Actually, the whole truck is the ground plane...(all the metal parts anyway) which is why it's important to do "Bonding"...Bonding is running ground straps off the doors, hood, fenders, tail pipes, all to the frame or door jams...Improving grounding of parts helps create a better ground plane and can also help reduce unwanted noise in the receive and help lower SWR reading....

It's time consuming as all get-out, but works...Just be sure to use "flat Ground braid" and not round electrical wire...You can buy ground braid on ebay for not that much, or can also use old coax...

If you use old coax, all you do is strip off the outer-plastic coating, then pull the center conductor wire out, which leaves you with the ground braid...flatten that out, and use short strips with self tapping screws to ground doors, hood, etc.....

You can get 15' of this stuff off ebay for under $10. https://www.ebay.com/itm/15-Ft-Flat-...QAAOSwImRYWqCA

What I do is stick some solder on the ends, then use self tapping screws threw the solder to the door jams and whatever...the solder will keep the screw from unraveling the ground braid.

last note...keep ground straps as short as possible and avoid long runs.

**Turboomni** · 04-21-2020, 05:31 PM

Very interesting! Less noise and better SWR . Sounds good but a lot of work. Wow even tail pipes too,,amazing.
Thanks

**JesseJamesDallas** · 04-21-2020, 06:42 PM

Originally Posted by Turboomni

Very interesting! Less noise and better SWR . Sounds good but a lot of work. Wow even tail pipes too,,amazing.
Thanks

Tail pipes are notorious for acting like antennas running the length of the vehicle...They are hung using rubber grommets and about the only place that has any ground at all would be where they bolt to the exhaust manifold which also has some sort of gasket separating the pipes from the manifold... With wires running all around the tail pipes they can pick up RF and cause some of the whining and popping sounds you hear in the radio...

Now don't go screwing into the pipes or mufflers themselfs, but try and figure a way to attach grounds to the brackets that hold the pipes up, then to the frame...You don't want to cause a exhaust leak by drilling into the pipes or mufflers...